Japan

A Multifaceted Treat

I visited Japan  many times and it wasn’t long before I discovered how much it had become one of my favourite countries in the world. The best part about travelling throughout Japan or even just walking along one of its many narrow city lanes, is that it seems as if I am meandering through an endless array of still life, with everything placed exactly where it should be. Every season has its own sparkling charm as well as country, city, temples and people.

Cherry Blossom Season

Cherry Blossom Season in Kyoto

Autumn Colours in Kyoto

Temples

Osaka

Funky People

Usually,Tokyo is the first stop on many Japanese journeys. Tokyo has a somewhat masculine look with its avant-garde architecture, stylish shops and outrageous restaurants. Taking a river cruise is a must in Asakusa. Shopping in the Harajuku, Roppongi, Shibuya and Ginza districts should be on everyone’s itinerary. Enjoying Japanese style karaoke can provide a hilarious insight into the current cultural landscape for those who are naturally outgoing or those who are able to overcome their inhibitions after a few beers. Venues range from the city-wide Karaoke-Kan chain to the insanely kitsch and colourful Shidax Village Club in Shibuya (130 private rooms spread over six floors).

Tokyo Architecture

Ginza

Harajuku

Not far from Tokyo, Nikko is home to the spectacular Tosho-gu shrine complex. The eclectic mountain city of Nagano (Zenko-ji temple) and the castle town Matsumoto are must-sees that are only a short ride from Tokyo. A stop at Fuji-san, Japan’s highest mountain with its exceptionally symmetrical cone, is not to be missed, especially on a clear day. The lovely gardens of Kanazawa and Okayama are fantastic locations for a great walk, as is the shrine of Kotohira (one of the most important in Shinto religion) in Shikoku.

Japanese Castle

Personally, I prefer to travel from the very North -opposite the Siberian Sea (visiting Abashiri and Kushiro) – to the very South, using the Shinkansen bullet trains to stop at many places and among other experiences feel the highly charged energy of the old Samurai town Kakunodate near Akita and the castle town Matsumoto. I have hiked on the rim of Aso, an active volcano in Kyushu, and visited modern Fukuoka, Nagasaki and Kumamoto, and also enjoyed the many onsens and sand baths near Beppu. I have a soft spot for the Kushiro Marsh in Hokkaido, just because the Japanese Red Crested Cranes mate there in the snow in March, They arrive alone, find their soul mate, perform the marriage dance and fly off together. What a specatcle! Unbelievable.

Tancho in Kushiro Marsh

Whilst all of these places (and many others that are not mentioned here) are absolutely magnificent, I assign a very special (domo) status to Kyoto, a marvellous city of temples, geishas and thus many mysteries. Since the end of the Nara Period (794), Kyoto has epitomised the major crossroads of Japanese history. From its beginnings as the Kunikyo and Nagaokakyo settlements until the Emperor moved to Tokyo, it served as the capital of Japan for over 1000 years. Even today, Kyoto remains the cultural centre of Japan, a city beloved by its natives and travellers from around the world, alike.

Kyoto Golden Temple

Excellent reminders of Kyoto’s ancient past are such sites as its Golden and Silver Temples. Whilst its traditions may have matured through the ages, Kyoto has nonetheless still managed to make startling advancements. Its rich culture and experience developed during the past ten-plus centuries have in fact become embodied in modern industries with state-of-the-art technologies. For example, semiconductors and liquid crystal displays are based on the techniques of Kiyomizu Pottery. Furthermore, the people of Kyoto have produced many religious arts and forms of entertainment. Countless Shinto rituals and festivals have captured the imagination of people the world over. Among them, festivals such as Gion Matsuri (once lost in the turmoil of war) have been restored and continue to exemplify the carefully maintained traditions of this area. Lately, whenever I near the end of a trip to Japan, I feel some anxiety mixed with a strong desire to return as soon as possible. That’s because I have now experienced enough to realise that everything there always appears as it should be – the smiles, the organisation, the cleanliness, the punctuality – almost effortlessly. Nihon ga suki desu – Japan, I like you (very much)!

Geisha Girls 

Trip Notes

Japan Rail Passes which have to be purchased outside of Japan are a must; the best value is achieved with a 3 week pass. In Tokyo I usually stay at the B Akasaka, a modern boutique hotel or at hotels of the Toyoko-Inn chain. In Kyoto my favourite area is central Nakagyo-ku, and my hotel recommendation is the Alpha or again hotels of the Toyoko-Inn chain. In Nikko I head to the Nikko Park Lodge owned by a Japanese-American named Ken. There, a Zen Buddhist prepares delicious dinners and also offers morning Yoga sessions. All in all, a marvellous experience! In other cities look for hotels that are part of the Toyoko-Inn chain, most of which are located near train stations. Rooms are functional, prices are low and they even offer a complimentary brekkie consisting of rice cakes, miso soup and coffee. My favourite is the skyscraper Toyoko-Inn in Kumamoto to the right of the Kyushu Shinkansen station. And if you want a break from Japanese food such as Sushi or Ramen, look for restaurants of the Cappriciosa chain which offer adequate Italian cuisine at a good price. Recommended inspirational reading before departing for Japan is Pico Iyer’s “The Lady and the Monk: Four Seasons in Kyoto”. This book is a delightful collection of adventures and thoughts posted by one of the world’s foremost travel writers who, after visiting many countries and making several trips to Japan, decided to settle in Kyoto.

Meeting of the Shinks

Food Display 

Toyoko-Inn 

Tea Ceremony