Food
and Wine (South Australia)
Day One: Adelaide
This morning, after awakening from a deep sleep, it takes a few minutes to comprehend my whereabouts: a spacious room at the Chifley Hotel on South Terrace in Adelaide, my first home upon immigrating to Australia. Stepping out onto the room’s wrap-around balcony, it all comes back as I soak in the familiar skyline.
Yesterday Rob, who once again serves as my travel
companion, and I checked into this lovely hotel on South Terrace. This morning, our comfort level certainly enters new peaks with a healthy breakfast in the hotel's restaurant. After scouring the breakfast menu, and settling on a
bowl of nutritious berries, it becomes clear what this journey should be all
about: great places for food and wine, along with some history of the spots we
are about to visit.
But before embarking on an Adelaide kind of day, I
must stress how great it feels to be back here.
I truly have a soft spot in my heart for this amazing city, which The
Economist once listed near the top of its World’s Most Liveable Cities. Serving
as the capital of South Australia, with a population exceeding 1.2 million,
Adelaide is the fifth largest city in Australia. Founded in 1836, it became a
home for free settlers to the then-new British colony. Colonel William Light,
one of the founding fathers, designed the city on the Torrens River to include
a generous layout with parklands positioned throughout. German heritage is also
prominent, starting with its namesake (Queen Adelaide was of German descent). I’m quite familiar with Adelaide and have developed
strong preferences for spots to visit this time round, such as King William
Road in Unley, The Parade in Norwood, Melbourne Street in North Adelaide, and
Hutt Street and, of course, the Festival Centre (built in 1973). After
verifying that those trendy strips and Adelaide’s architecture are just as
fabulous as ever, Rob and I grow hungry for some food at my favourite Italian
eatery: Amalfi Pizzeria on Frome/corner Rundle.
Amalfi has been in the same spot as long as I’ve
known Adelaide, and the food is always of the same high quality. Robert, who
himself is a bit of a gourmet cook - learning his skill from a Swiss chef that
used to prepare meals for such notables as the former Shah Of Iran and Henry
Kissinger - is also quite impressed. Having sustained ourselves comfortably, we are ready
for a stroll down Rundle Mall where we join others for a bit of street
frolicking. Of course, no food and wine
tour can ever be complete without stopping at Haigh’s Chocolates (founded right
here in South Australia in 1915) on the corner of King William Street.
Adelaide never ceases to surprise me. Why? The
Premier of South Australia, his planning minister and many other interest
groups have come together to create “Sensational Adelaide”, a blue print
The day progresses much too swiftly and we can’t see
everything we’d like, but we are here in part to taste delicious food. As dinnertime approaches, I talk Rob into
Eros Café, a Greek eatery on Rundle, where we treat ourselves to beetroot
salad, tzaziki, calamari and, of course, Retsina. For tonight, the Australian
wines can wait – but they will have their day: tomorrow in the Barossa.
Day Two: Barossa Valley
After a second night at the comfy Chifley, followed by a disciplined selection from the rich breakfast buffet (after all, there’s sooo much more food to come), we head off to the Barossa Valley. This incredibly charming area, located just an hour outside Adelaide, is heralded for its wine-producing prowess. I am especially interested in the history of this area because so many of its original settlers came over from Germany just like me. German immigrants were instrumental in developing the food and wine business the valley has become so famous for. In fact, already in the late 1830s the first German explorer here, Johannes Menge, described the valley as: “The cream, the whole cream and nothing but the cream.”
But
before delving into cream and wine, first comes a lesson re: the valley’s
namesake. Well, Colonel William Light (remember him from yesterday?) chose this
name after the Battle of Barrosa (1811) in Spain in which he fought. We select Lyndoch as
our initial stop because it was on this ground where as the new colony’s chief
surveyor Colonel Light first sketched the valley’s lay out. Where better to celebrate
this than at Lyndoch Bakery, famous for its German cuisine. Although Robert
seems less than enthusiastic, I order plates of Sauerkraut and
Bratkartoffeln (fried potatoes). With
such “ueber” generous portions, I struggle to make room for the piece de
resistance: Bienenstich (Beesting), which is very popular in Hamburg (my home
town) but a rarity in Australia. The bakers at this café are known to produce
some of the best; their trick: getting the cream right. Umm, it’s so delicious
that we purchase four additional servings to take with us.
When
visiting the Barossa I always like to stop at Menglers Hill (named after the
first explorer noted above) near Bethany, not only for its breathtaking views,
but more so to commemorate those Germans who arrived long before me in 1842.
The Pioneers’ Memorial notes persecution in the old “heimat”, thus the Barossa’s
towns bear witness to the Lutheran brand of Christianity with numerous
churches. Unquestionably, the prettiest is the Tabor Church in Tanunda.
With
plenty of food in our stomachs and having already gotten the “official”
greeting behind us, it is now time to visit some wineries. Already throughout
our drive, we’re astonished how the valley’s climate seems so ideal for
producing excellent grapes. Selecting
a winery is no easy chore since this region sports close to a 100 cellar doors.
We know we can’t taste it all (I’m not that big a drinker), so I rely on Rob - who has quite a wine cellar at home - to select for us. First stop: Jacob
Creek’s modern tasting rooms since it was really here that the Barossa wine
making tradition got started. Johann Gramp, an immigrant from Bavaria, founded
the winery in 1847. Jacob’s Creek is known for its excellent Shiraz wines and
we get to sample some of the better years.
Next
is Seppeltsfield (est 1851), situated on an awesome estate, with a long
tradition of producing superlative wines, in particular its centennial
collections and 100 year old vintages. We join a crowd eager to taste their
offerings and Robert decides to purchase a few bottles of their limited
releases. Before departing, we walk up
to a mausoleum nestled on top of a small hill; it seems like the ideal resting
place for the Seppelts family.
I
think my stomach can handle only two more stops at this point - keep in mind,
we must still drive back to Adelaide - so Rob opts for St Hallet and finally
Hemera, although a lesser known label, one that appears poised for expansion.
We are rewarded with the attendant’s undivided focus, indeed a very private
affair. What
a great finish to our wine tasting tour of the Barossa, but we are not leaving
without first dropping in on Maggie Beer, a well known Australian (with some German
ancestry) cook and author and a
Member of the Order of Australia,
appointed for her service to the tourism and hospitality industry. Many
know her from her appearance as a guest judge on Master Chef. While at her farm and food shop, one can
really learn all about food: e.g. oils, pates and other goodies. We taste and
shop until we…drop. Almost. I know I won’t need dinner, but I nonetheless
enjoyed eating and drinking my way around the Barossa.
Sad to depart, but depart we must; other
adventures await us. So I’ll leave you with the story of wine in pictures: from
the grape to the glass. Prost!
Day Three: Hahndorf
Greeting the friendly breakfast staff at the hotel in Adelaide,
we must once again struggle to restrain our appetites because another day of food
awaits us. Can’t resist a helping of the nutritious berries, though. Typical
for a woman: Have I gained weight – I wonder? Rob and I discuss our agenda for the day: a visit
to Hahndorf, which is sure to stir even more reminders of South Australia’s
German heritage. Following our quick but tasty brekkie, we pull out onto the
South Eastern freeway destined for Hahndorf in the Adelaide Hills, another
prominent wine and food producing area.
We arrive there very quickly. Like the Barossa, Hahndorf was for the most part settled by Lutheran immigrants, many of which came
over on The Zebra, which docked in Port Adelaide in 1838. In fact, Hahndorf is
named after that ship’s Danish captain, Dirk Meinhaertz Hahn. The South
Australian government ordered a name change during World War I and Hahndorf
became Ambleside, but fortunately its original name was re-instated during the
1930s. Today, Hahndorf is established not only as a major tourist destination,
but also as the food bowl of Adelaide, thanks to the hard working first
settlers who tilled its fertile soil into excellent farmland.
As we park the car and
walk along Main Street, we are reminded of Hahndorf’s rich German past via the
“fachwerk” houses, bakeries, restaurants and assorted speciality shops selling
everything from sweets, cakes, small goods to nutcrackers and “Kuckuck” clocks
of Black Forest fame.
We first front up to
Otto’s Bakery to taste some Schweinsohren (Pigs’ Ears), which like the Beesting
yesterday, are a rare find in Australia.
After a “sweet” bite, I
can’t wait to drop in on the Cedars, the home of painter Sir Hans Heysen from
1912 to 1968. Hans Heysen is quite special to me because he came from my
hometown (Hamburg) as early as 1884. Sometimes I find myself yearning to have
been around to witness those early days in Australia. Not to indulge in too much nostalgia, but his
story is immortalised in Colin Thiele’s book “Heysen of Hahndorf”. Sir Hans is
revered by many an Australian because he produced some astonishing paintings of
the Australian bush, especially its gum trees.
Are we now ready to
snack at one of Hahndorf’s traditional German beer houses? Absolutely; however,
I hold off ordering one of their extra-long Hot Dogs, a house speciality.
Then it’s time to return
to Adelaide and see a marvellous clearinghouse for all local produce: the
Adelaide Central Market, in my humble opinion, the best of its kind in
Australia. Here more than 80 stalls sell goods freshly harvested from the
magnificent valleys of Adelaide’s hinterland, such as the Barossa (where we
visited yesterday) and the food bowl around Hahndorf. And it is all so well
presented. My gourmet cook friend, Rob, is certainly in his element, what
with all the tastings of fine breads, pates, fruits and cookies on offer. He actually tells me that he would be keen on moving
here – just for this market. If that’s not a big “thumb’s up” on South
Australia’s food and wine, I don’t know what is.
Day Four: Limestone Coast and Naracoorte
After packing and brekkie we head southbound along Princess
Highway toward Younghusband Peninsula, Coorong National Park (known for its
lagoon eco system), and the magnificent Limestone Coast. This represents a
major change of pace from our previous days marked by lovely wine valleys and
hills, but it’s nonetheless a breathtaking experience. Once again, there will be no shortage of food
but, this time, we’ll focus on fresh seafood. Tomorrow will bring wine tastings
again but today we are eager to admire some rich landscapes offering unique
contrasts.
Whilst Rob takes a turn at the wheel, I read him
details concerning the genesis of this special coastal region. Over 25 million
years ago, areas beneath the Southern Ocean floor were cemented together into
soft porous white rock we now call limestone The naturally low-lying coastland
was inundated by sea forces some 2 million years ago. When European settlers arrived in
1840, they immediately set out to establish huge pastoral land holdings. The
climate here is cool and wet, which quite frankly suits me just fine. Enjoying as many beautiful drive-by sights as we
can, we finally stop in Kingston to take a gander of Larry the Big
Lobster. Perhaps it’s intended to serve
as an iconic reminder of the ultimate sacrifices made by his brothers and
cousins of the sea, which we routinely scarf down without thinking twice. Good
on you, Larry, I say, while taking the photo.
My favourite destination is Robe, a charming seaside
town, which tends to remind me of Ireland. We pause for a significant while,
resuming our food tour with a scrumptious seafood lunch (what else here on the
Limestone Coast) and a coastal hike afterward, not only to speed up digestion,
but to enjoy great views of the wild and unpredictable Southern Ocean below us,
along with a stunning light house that helps ships navigate safely through the
area. We bid farewell to the great ocean, at this point, because we’ll not see
it again during the remainder of the trip.
Turning inland, we criss-cross some more stunning rural
areas before reaching our night spot:
Naracoorte, which is notable for several reasons. First, I want to acknowledge
the presence of Scottish heritage, which is clearly visible in the form of architecture
and wool production. Rob is of Scottish descent and seems to have “his” day
now after all the German “stuff”.
However, for tourists more important is South Australia’s only World Heritage site: Naracoorte Caves National Park, a fossil site which is said to be unrivalled on this planet. We got started early this morning , in part because the park closes at 5 pm. We have time to look around a bit, but we missed the tours. Never mind, I enjoyed one tour just 2 years ago and still have photos and certainly remember the incredible fossils telling of a prehistoric time on our planet. And more importantly, here I could admire the limestone close up. At last, we proceed to our next motel: the nicely situated and well-appointed Sundowner William MacIntosh Motor Lodge. As the name suggests, it contributes to the Scottish ancestry of Naracoorte. Posted just outside town, the lodge sports beautiful surrounds matching the hearty welcome extended by Gill, the proprietor’s partner. She graciously upgrades us to a room just the way we like it: spacious with a lovely deep bath. Since I spent much of the day in the windy clutches of the mighty Southern Ocean, nothing soothes like a hot steamy relaxing bath. Thanks Gill, you read my mind. After emerging all warmed up, a nutritious supper of seafood leftover from our day on the Limestone Coast magically appears on the room’s large table. Thanks, of course, to Rob.
Day Five: Coonawarra
As I mentioned yesterday, we have scheduled a visit
to one more fabulous wine growing area: the Coonawarra, another of my
favourites in Australia, which thanks to its cooler climate, will help me
find “my” pinot noir types. Probing a bit, we discover what makes the Coonawarra
so special. Whereas, yesterday, we saw some unbelievably beautiful limestone
formations, here, stones meld with the rich red “terra rossa” soil, resulting
in a superb growing environment for grapes.
The cigar shaped ribbon of this soil is only 27 km
long and 1.8 km wide, but wow, when the sun hits the strip, a vibrant red
results. Thanks to John Riddoch, a Scottish settler and former bricklayer who
was lured to the new colonies by the Victorian gold rush, these conditions were
recognised as early as 1890 when the Coonawarra wine region was founded. It is
very different from the Barossa, flat with dark moody skies above, almost stern;
however, for us the Coonawarra is equally appealing. Again, it’s tough to choose which cellar doors to stop
at, but one for sure has to be Rymill, managed by Riddoch’s
great-great-grandson.
Wynns Coonawarra Estate comes next because it is in
the midst of celebrating 60 years of its famous Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon,
one of Robert’s favourites. I am so glad Rob brought all his credit cards. Our last tastings of the day come at Hollick, largely
because I can treat myself to a delicious Pinot Noir, and finally at Redman’s,
if only for the over 400 dollar red which Rob, after all, decides to leave
behind in favour of some cheaper brands.
We can’t linger for long because Penola beckons
where we want to spend a few hours “walking with history”, in the shoes of such
notables as Alexander Cameron and Australia’s first Saint, Mary MacKillop. But
first we need a bite to eat. Since
Pipers (a multi-awarded restaurant) is closed, we head to one of the
recommended cafes, Di Vine, on the main street. A good cuppa and a few smaller snacks
are enough for us.
Now we are poised to commence exploring this quaint
town, which we learn suffered at the hands of a horrendous tornado in 2010. Fortunately
this is not the case today, as the sun smiles on us whilst we embark on some of
the journey undertaken by Saint Mary of the Cross. Mary left Melbourne at the
age of 18 to come to Penola to work as a governess for her uncle’s family. Her uncle was Scot Alexander Cameron, one of
the early settlers in this area. He
obtained one of the first licences granted to operate a pub, the Royal Oak. I
certainly salute his statue in front of the pub today, the “King of Penola” as
he was called in his day. What makes this particularly interesting is that one
of his descendants is my neighbour and friend in Sydney: Phillip Cameron. The
world is a small place, indeed. I don’t think I detect any similarities……. And
Phil doesn’t seem very interested in pubs either.
Back to Mary: together with Father Woods she co-founded the
congregation of the Sisters of Saint Joseph which engaged in the establishment
of various schools and welfare institutions, especially helping rural folks. Her
recognition as a Saint stems from a couple of miracles involving people being cured
of their affliction. Near the museum dedicated to her life, we also get to
visit the church built in her honour.
Last, but not
least, we take a wander on Penola’s most famous little street, Petticoat Lane,
which features historic cottages from the 1860s.
Penola is a special place, indeed, what with the
wines of the Coonawarra mixing with a bit of spiritual and other history, perhaps
an unrivalled combination. I must say we covered a lot of ground in the area
and start feeling a little exhausted.
It’s time to hop into the car and head north
to our next destination: Bordertown.
After a two-hour drive, we arrive at the Sundowner Bordertown Motel on
Dukes Highway where the receptionist welcomes us and checks us into a comfortable
room. We note there is an elegant restaurant attached to the motel, but
unfortunately, our stomachs are full from our visit to the Coonawarra. Are we ever glad to put our feet up tonight, but not
before enjoying a quick swing around town, including a visit to a local pub
where we join in some fun with an engagement party. I must say, I sense some
surprises in Bordertown but more about that tomorrow. At this stage, we are
thrilled to get a good night’s sleep and hopefully some graces from the good Saint
Mary.
Day Six: Bordertown
After a comfy night’s sleep, I wake up refreshed, but nonetheless
reluctant to get out of bed. It’s hard
to say why - perhaps because we have a bit of time on our hands this morning.
Then, it becomes clear: the curtain is being drawn on what has turned out to be
a magnificent, I dare say spiritually uplifting, road trip, one which has
offered-up South Australia’s finest wines, food, scenery, history and culture,
not to mention excellent lodging accommodations. However, after a quick brekkie, it’s go time. Bordertown is perhaps an unlikely stop for some,
despite its proximity to a major highway (Duke) from Victoria. Bordertown is in
the Tatiara. Tatiara is said to mean
“the good country”, a name which dates back to the area's first inhabitants.
It is also referred to as “Red Gum” country, what with its share of many majestic
species. I am drawn here for a different reason, though. On 9 December 1929 a very special boy
was
born in Bordertown: Robert
James Lee Hawke, who grew up to become Australia’s 23rd Prime
Minister from 1983 to 1991. I’m proud to say that I’ve twice had the pleasure
of meeting PM Hawke; first, during an election campaign swing through Sydney’s
Opera in the Park where, walking through the crowd shaking hands, he also grabbed
mine. The other came about because my name was on the guest list for a dinner
at The Lodge in Canberra, in honour of a state visit by the then-King and Queen
of Nepal. Thus, it’s with those fond memories that I admire his bust on display
at the centre of Bordertown. Then, Rob and I take a quick walk to his birth
house.
But wait, Bordertown
has another treat in store for us; would you believe, at the entrance to town
there is a small wild life park with…. white kangaroos. In all my time in
Australia, I have seen many, but never white ones. We learn that they are a
genetic strain of the Western Grey. I could stay for hours just to watch them.
Finally, it’s time to
return to Adelaide for our “Farewell South Australia”. We scurry along Duke
Highway but afford ourselves one more stop as we approach Adelaide. Where
better to say “Good Bye” then from the summit of Mount Lofty (a bit over 700 m
high) in the Adelaide Hills, where the panoramic view of Adelaide and its
environs is breath taking. I feel a little teary-eyed, but more determined than
ever to come back soon.
Then we head to the
Zouk restaurant, which epitomises our South Australian food and wine tasting
tour. It’s fitting that many of the dishes we are served were freshly prepared
from produce we saw close-up in the Barossa, Hahndorf and the Limestone Coast. While we regret not seeing and tasting everything - who
could possibly do all that - we are incredibly satisfied with this fab road
trip. We say “Cheers” and “Thanks” to the friendly waiters (as well as other
staffs, proprietors and the scores of friendly people we encountered along the
way). Our departure tomorrow seems far-off at this special moment.
No comments:
Post a Comment