Antarctica

Boy, was I lucky when one year in the depth of winter I reached Puntas Arenas in Chile's South and literally bumped into members of the Brazilian Air Force. They were about to fulfill one of my travel dreams, namely invite me on their Antarctica mission. The next morning we headed for the airport and boarded a Hercules. Several hours later, after enjoying some spectacular scenery flying over Cape Horn, the northern tip of Antarctica came into sight. Surprisingly there was not as much ice as I expected – perhaps some proof of global warming? As we turned inland, the crew readied the Hercules’ rear door for one of its missions: the parachuting of supply parcels down to the Brazilian base where weather conditions prevent aircraft landings in winter. As we edged closer to the Chilean base, I was allowed to look-on as one of the crew’s trainee pilot practised taking off and landing on ice.

Finally we landed to dispense the remaining cargo (winter rations) and enjoy some tea and snacks with the Chilean base’s officers. Whilst some crew members opted to rest, the commander graciously escorted me on an invigorating walk so I could take in as much nature as time would allow. Surprisingly, temperatures (ranging from -12 to -30 degrees Celsius) were not as severe as I expected, but the goggles definitely came in handy to deal with the brisk winds.

Ilka in Antarctica

I was a bit disappointed not to encounter any penguins;  they tend to spend winter months further north, near the Falkland Islands, in slightly warmer conditions. Nonetheless, the sheer gravity of the moment left me in awe –  here I was, staggering about on the ice of Antarctica. I later had the pleasure of meeting the postmaster of Russia’s near-by station.  It is common for base workers to watch and listen for incoming planes so they can drop off mail for flight crews to take back to the mainland. Way too soon, before darkness descended on Antarctica’s white blanket, we had to return to Puntas Arenas. Back at the hotel I slept like a rock. When I awoke the next morning, I could hardly believe where I had spent the previous day.

Trip Notes

Most tourists Antarctica visit Antarctica  during the austral summer season from November to March. When sea ice melts enough to allow access, coastal temperatures can rise up to 14°C. During the winter the sea is impassable and temperatures can fall to -40°C. Destinations for those visiting Antarctica will either be a research base (for those working on the frozen continent) or the Antarctic Peninsula or Ross Sea area (for those visiting by ship). And naturally, cruise ships offer the typical means for visiting Antarctica.  Most cruise ships destined for Antarctica depart from Ushuaia, a scenic port town in Terra del Fuego (southern tip of Argentina). Some shipping companies now offer Fly/Cruise options, which entail a one-way or round-trip flight from either Santiago or Puntas Arenas to King George Island. They are often pricier than typical cruises, which cross the Drake Passage both ways; however, they do cut 1-3 days off the total travel time. Research on the internet is recommended to identify suitable cruises.