Girl on a Compass: Bhutan

the Unforgettable Kingdom

Thimphu Tzong at Night

Most ardent travellers, when not counting blessings, spend endless hours analysing “the best of the rest” in the hope of putting together one more trip that stands out from all others. I am no exception. A few years ago, while assessing what had over time become a relatively small but nonetheless challenging “bucket list”, I sought out the ultimate travel destination, one that would satisfy my usual passion for mystery and intrigue whilst offering unprecedented opportunities for spiritual enrichment: and that was to be Bhutan!

Bhutan is a small country tucked away in the eastern end of the Himalayas between China and India with just over 700 000 inhabitants. It has a uniquely rich cultural heritage in a land that has become more accessible since the 1960s. A major attraction for travellers like me is meaningful access to resources that are vital to best understand and appreciate Bhutanese traditions steeped in Buddhist heritage, in particular those which have resulted in Bhutan being the only nation on earth that adheres to the teachings of Vajrayana Buddhism.

Memorial Chorten in Thimphu

Bhutan’s government makes every effort to preserve and sustain its unique traditions, whilst simultaneously seeking appropriate ways to embrace the modern world. This is very evident in its tourism policy which mixes low volume with high quality. Entry is easy for citizens of India and Bangladesh, but all other travellers are required to purchase a package from government sanctioned tour operators and spend at least US $250 per day in Bhutan – a price that includes a car, driver, guide, a good hotel, three meals a day, all tours and entry fees. The initial notion, that such daily spending is a bit rich, is soon surpassed by the opportunity to be part of a select group that can sample the magic and the mystery of one of the world’s most enigmatic nation. Every day, in fact every moment, delivers a wow factor that can only be felt by observing Bhutan’s monastic life, its magnificent flora and fauna, its rich textiles, and indeed the notion that material aims should be subordinated to the pursuit of inner happiness and fulfilment.

Monks

His Holiness Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye at Tango Moanstery

Astrology Monk in Thimphu

Bhutanese Textile

Political Philosophy in Bhutan

Predominantly travellers opt for cultural tours in Paro, Thimphu and Punakha. Others embark on extended journeys spanning the entire country, visiting Trongsa, Jakar, Mongar and Trashigang and perhaps exiting through Samdrup into India’s Assam region. However, most arrive by plane to Paro Airport, but I arrived in this lovely land by passing through the Bhutan Gate from Jaigaon (West Bengal, India) into Phuentsholing, where I was able to enjoy some timely refreshments before embarking on an ascending drive to one of the most charming capitals I have ever encountered. Thimphu with more than 100 000 people is where my love affair with Bhutan started!

Paro Airport

Bhutan Border Gate

Thimphu’s appeal is exemplified by its mix of old and new, its blend of proud traditions portrayed in many colourful festivals. Yet Thimphu also offers a fresh exuberance felt at every corner one turns. I was kept busy by visits to great sights such as the Thimphu Tzong, the Folk Heritage Museum, the Royal Palace, the Textile Museum, the lively weekend market and of course marvelling at the national animal, the Takin (sporting the unusual combination of the head of a goat and the body of a cow). However, Thimphu also offers a few good eateries and cafes which always are a must for me – not just to eat but more so to interact with other visitors and locals. I enjoyed visiting Punakha, Paro and climbing the famous Tigers Nest, but it was Thimphu which left a special mark on me. I cannot wait to sample more of this unusual and enchanting capital.

Thimphu Street Scene

Takin

Weaver in Thimphu

In the Market in Bhutan

Market

House

Haa Festival

Tigers Nest near Paro

Trip Notes

The best times to visit Bhutan are April and October, with October offering clearer skies and better views of the distant high Himalayas. I asked my tour operator to arrange for day tours and opted to stay most nights in Thimphu in an apartment in the Semthuen Complex in Upper Motithang, next to the Ministerial compound and a 100 Nu (approx 2 dollars) taxi ride from downtown. I spent my spare time in Cafe Ambient on Norzim Lam, a fantastic cafe to make new friends. Also noteworthy is Karma’s coffee shop (Karma received his barista training in Australia’s capital Canberra). I was overjoyed that I could enjoy my favourite "flat white" as well as tasty tuna sandwiches and muffins. Those nights, when dinner was not pre-arranged, I ate at the Season's Pizzeria on Phenday Lam, truly one of the best dining spots for Thimphu. My preferred tour operator is Karma Tshetem from Bhutan Herders Expeditions. He is not only very good with noting historical facts, but also does this with charm, grace and kindness. Karma has become my best friend in Bhutan. For more information see my "Hello Bhutan" website http://www.hellobhutan.net/